A Papua New Guinean mumu (pronounced moo-moo) is a traditional means of cooking enough food for a large number of people. Rose, Charlie and Amie’s Haus Meri (housekeeper), invited them to bring us over to her clan home for a traditional Mumu on Saturday, June 28.
We had hoped to get this invitation, not only for the mumu, but also because we thought that this would likely be the closest we got to a traditional Papua New Guinean homestead during our visit, since we were staying on the SIL facility in Ukarumpa. This turned out to be the case, and the visit to Rose’s was certainly a highlight of our trip.
Rose lives near the SIL airstrip in the Aiyura Valley,
a couple of miles from the SIL facility at Ukarumpa. After crossing the Bae River to exit the SIL facility, at the end of the dirt road we turned left onto the pavement, and drove past the north end of the airstrip, turning right onto the dirt road that runs along the edge of the airstrip. About halfway up the airstrip, we turned left onto a grass-covered dirt road between two coffee groves, heading down to an intersection with another dirt road. These roads were apparently built to access the coffee groves, which reported produce coffee for Starbucks. This was as close as we would be able to drive, so Charlie turned the van around at this intersection, carefully avoiding the deep ditches on each side of the road. The nine of us piled out of the van, grabbed the bags of chicken we were providing for the mumu, and headed down the footpath toward Rose’s homestead.
a couple of miles from the SIL facility at Ukarumpa. After crossing the Bae River to exit the SIL facility, at the end of the dirt road we turned left onto the pavement, and drove past the north end of the airstrip, turning right onto the dirt road that runs along the edge of the airstrip. About halfway up the airstrip, we turned left onto a grass-covered dirt road between two coffee groves, heading down to an intersection with another dirt road. These roads were apparently built to access the coffee groves, which reported produce coffee for Starbucks. This was as close as we would be able to drive, so Charlie turned the van around at this intersection, carefully avoiding the deep ditches on each side of the road. The nine of us piled out of the van, grabbed the bags of chicken we were providing for the mumu, and headed down the footpath toward Rose’s homestead. The footpath was on the grove-access road for 100 yards or so, where the coffee groves ended at the edge of a small creek. We crossed the sturdy bridge 
and the footpath continued on thru high kunai grass for another couple of hundred yards, winding around a small hill. Around this hill we saw a couple of thatched huts (I’m reluctant to call them “huts” because that seems to be a pejorative term, and I found many of them to be very appealing.) We then descended to a footbridge across another small creek. Up on the hill across the creek was the cluster of buildings that is home to Rose, her mother, her brother, and several other relatives.
Rose met us and got her nephew to help her prepare 
the mumu. Near the center of the cluster of buildings was a pit filled with fist-sized and slightly larger rocks. Rose cleared the ground around the pit, and put some kindling-sized sticks on top of the rocks. She and her nephew added some bigger sticks, and started the fire, using some kerosene to help start the fire (I suspect the kerosene isn’t part of ancient tradition.) They then started using larger pieces of wood, building a pretty large fire on top of the rocks. Rose and her family no longer cut their own 
firewood, but rather purchase it already split and cut into 5’ or 6’ lengths. Rose’s nephew used an ax to help break and split the wood into smaller pieces. They recruited my grandkids to help bring firewood to the fire. Once the fire was going well and the pile was around 2’ high, they added more rocks to the fire.
the mumu. Near the center of the cluster of buildings was a pit filled with fist-sized and slightly larger rocks. Rose cleared the ground around the pit, and put some kindling-sized sticks on top of the rocks. She and her nephew added some bigger sticks, and started the fire, using some kerosene to help start the fire (I suspect the kerosene isn’t part of ancient tradition.) They then started using larger pieces of wood, building a pretty large fire on top of the rocks. Rose and her family no longer cut their own 
firewood, but rather purchase it already split and cut into 5’ or 6’ lengths. Rose’s nephew used an ax to help break and split the wood into smaller pieces. They recruited my grandkids to help bring firewood to the fire. Once the fire was going well and the pile was around 2’ high, they added more rocks to the fire.
The fire needed to burn for a while to get the rocks 
hot enough, so Rose took this opportunity to show us around her place. Rose is an enterprising individual, and in addition to her work at SIL, she raises pigs to sell. She also has a large garden not only for her own food, but also to sell whatever excess there may be. She owned two cows at the time of our visit – three by the time we left as one had a calf a few days after the mumu. The garden is quite large, and includes kau-kau (a PNG staple), pit-pit (looks like a green onion; Cindy likened the taste to artichoke hearts,) potatoes, beans, carrots, cabbage, bananas (both sweet and cooking,) and pumpkins. I’m sure I left something out. Between Rose and her relatives who live in this homestead, the garden looked to be at least an acre in size. In addition, Rose keeps a “far garden” in the mountains a three-hour walk away.
hot enough, so Rose took this opportunity to show us around her place. Rose is an enterprising individual, and in addition to her work at SIL, she raises pigs to sell. She also has a large garden not only for her own food, but also to sell whatever excess there may be. She owned two cows at the time of our visit – three by the time we left as one had a calf a few days after the mumu. The garden is quite large, and includes kau-kau (a PNG staple), pit-pit (looks like a green onion; Cindy likened the taste to artichoke hearts,) potatoes, beans, carrots, cabbage, bananas (both sweet and cooking,) and pumpkins. I’m sure I left something out. Between Rose and her relatives who live in this homestead, the garden looked to be at least an acre in size. In addition, Rose keeps a “far garden” in the mountains a three-hour walk away.
Rose lives in a more modern home now, and her 
brother Joel also has modern home at this settlement, but we visited two of the thatched huts while waiting for the fire to burn down. One was the home of Rose’s mother, who still lives in the traditional manner. The round huts have woven mats attached to a wooden framework for the sides, with the mats starting about 18” off the ground. About 2/3 of the circumference of the building has a raised platform 2’ or 3’ wide. This platform has a wooden face to keep animals out – in some buildings the part of the 
building where this platform is built does not have an exterior wall up to the height of the platform. There is a wooden exterior wall covering this area in the part of the building without the platform. Near the center of each hut is a place for a fire. Traditionally I think this would have been a stone fire ring, but now this is typically an iron grate. We were introduced to Rose’s mother in her home, and Rose’s nephew was keeping some baby chickens that needed incubation in his home. He was kind enough to leave his home open to our grandkids, so they could go in and hold the chicks.
brother Joel also has modern home at this settlement, but we visited two of the thatched huts while waiting for the fire to burn down. One was the home of Rose’s mother, who still lives in the traditional manner. The round huts have woven mats attached to a wooden framework for the sides, with the mats starting about 18” off the ground. About 2/3 of the circumference of the building has a raised platform 2’ or 3’ wide. This platform has a wooden face to keep animals out – in some buildings the part of the 
building where this platform is built does not have an exterior wall up to the height of the platform. There is a wooden exterior wall covering this area in the part of the building without the platform. Near the center of each hut is a place for a fire. Traditionally I think this would have been a stone fire ring, but now this is typically an iron grate. We were introduced to Rose’s mother in her home, and Rose’s nephew was keeping some baby chickens that needed incubation in his home. He was kind enough to leave his home open to our grandkids, so they could go in and hold the chicks.
After the mumu fire had burned out, leaving only coals, Rose’s grand-nephew joined her and her nephew in completing the preparation of the mumu. They cleared away the coals, and laid a ring of old, 
wet banana leaves around the outside of the ring of hot rocks. These banana leaves were held in place by shovels of dirt around the outside of them. They then laid a bed of green banana leaves over the hot rocks, completely covering the rocks. A layer of yellowed banana leaves – probably too yellow to lay directly on the hot rocks, but sufficient for another insulating layer on top of the green leaves – and the mumu was ready to start receiving food. Rose’s niece Ema and several of the children who live there joined us, and they started bringing the pans of vegetables and meat down to the mumu. The Brown kids got in on the action as the vegetables were put on the banana leaves. The vegetables were piled deep, and then another layer of wet, yellow banana leaves were added. Cooking bananas were added, then taro (greens), with meat on the taro. Another layer of taro, hotdogs, and then more taro. Banana leaves were then criss-crossed on the top to seal the steam in and keep the dirt out. Then shovels of dirt were used to build up a wall around the 
mumu, insulating it and sealing the steam in. When the dirt was piled near the top, Rose opened a steaming hole in the top of the banana leaves, and her nephew poured a pan of water into the mumu to create even more steam. The banana leaves were closed back up, a pan was put over the top to protect from dirt getting in, and the final shovels of dirt were pile onto the top, completely covering the pan and leaves, completing the mumu oven.
wet banana leaves around the outside of the ring of hot rocks. These banana leaves were held in place by shovels of dirt around the outside of them. They then laid a bed of green banana leaves over the hot rocks, completely covering the rocks. A layer of yellowed banana leaves – probably too yellow to lay directly on the hot rocks, but sufficient for another insulating layer on top of the green leaves – and the mumu was ready to start receiving food. Rose’s niece Ema and several of the children who live there joined us, and they started bringing the pans of vegetables and meat down to the mumu. The Brown kids got in on the action as the vegetables were put on the banana leaves. The vegetables were piled deep, and then another layer of wet, yellow banana leaves were added. Cooking bananas were added, then taro (greens), with meat on the taro. Another layer of taro, hotdogs, and then more taro. Banana leaves were then criss-crossed on the top to seal the steam in and keep the dirt out. Then shovels of dirt were used to build up a wall around the 
mumu, insulating it and sealing the steam in. When the dirt was piled near the top, Rose opened a steaming hole in the top of the banana leaves, and her nephew poured a pan of water into the mumu to create even more steam. The banana leaves were closed back up, a pan was put over the top to protect from dirt getting in, and the final shovels of dirt were pile onto the top, completely covering the pan and leaves, completing the mumu oven. 
The mumu needed a while to cook, and Rose had agreed to go to the market in Kainantu with us, so we headed back to the van. It was about a 20-minute drive to Kainantu, and we pulled into the market. For some reason, it wasn’t nearly as crowded as it had been when came through on Wednesday, although there was still quite a crowd. We walked to the back of the market for Cindy to look over a number of skirt outfits that were hanging on the fence surrounding the market. Cindy looked a number over, asked a few questions which were interpreted by Amie, who can speak and understand more Tok Pisin than she admits, and finally (my response whenever we’re shopping) selected a couple of outfits as souvenirs. We headed back toward the front of the market, looking at various wares. I found the chicken feet, sold by several vendors, to be among the most interesting. I wasn’t sure how these were used, but then I saw a lady eating one – kind of chewing the “meat” off the bones. Snack food, I guess. As we left, Charlie asked Rose about the market across the street from the one we had just left. “Why don’t we go to that market?” “Buai” was the one-word response, said with some disdain. Buai is the combination of betel nut, lime, and pepper that many Papua New Guineans chew to get a bit of a buzz – it is apparently slightly intoxicating. We had seen many red-toothed smiles around the country, and dodged red spatters all over Kainantu on the several trips we made while we were there. I had also noticed dartboards on the trees in the other market, so apparently that was ‘the wrong side of the tracks.’ Going in there would probably be risky business for a whiteskin carrying a camera.
We headed out of Kainantu and back to Rose’s, making the short 
trek from the coffee-grove roads. We hung out, with the kids holding the baby chickens and feeding the rabbits, while Cindy and I photographed the area until Rose decided enough time had passed. She got a shovel, and started removing the dirt from the mumu. Jeff, Chase, and Charlie all pitched in until the banana-leaf pile was free of dirt. Pans were called down, and Rose started pulling back the banana leaves, uncovering the treasure of food hidden within. A cast of many started loading the food into pans, and as each pan was filled, it was carried up to a waiting table in the yard outside Rose’s house. Each item was put in its own pan, a bit of a trick separating the taro from the meat, but in about 15 minutes, the mumu was empty, and we were ready to feast.
trek from the coffee-grove roads. We hung out, with the kids holding the baby chickens and feeding the rabbits, while Cindy and I photographed the area until Rose decided enough time had passed. She got a shovel, and started removing the dirt from the mumu. Jeff, Chase, and Charlie all pitched in until the banana-leaf pile was free of dirt. Pans were called down, and Rose started pulling back the banana leaves, uncovering the treasure of food hidden within. A cast of many started loading the food into pans, and as each pan was filled, it was carried up to a waiting table in the yard outside Rose’s house. Each item was put in its own pan, a bit of a trick separating the taro from the meat, but in about 15 minutes, the mumu was empty, and we were ready to feast.
One of the Brown children asked the blessing, and we each walked by the table picking up a plate and loading it with various foods. Kau-kau 
(with salt added) was pretty good. I didn’t care for the bananas, but the taro greens were quite delicious. I tried some pit-pit; very nice, and the chicken was quite good as well. The potatoes were quite good, but my favorite were the lamb flaps. I’m not sure what part of the animal a “flap” is, but it was delicious! (A quick Internet search reveals that “if sheep were pigs, lamb flaps would be bacon.”) They had also fried some chicken – no breading or skin – in a pot on the fire in the house with the chickens, and that was quite good as well. I could tell from the sounds and smiles from around the grounds that I wasn’t the only one enjoying this mumu.
(with salt added) was pretty good. I didn’t care for the bananas, but the taro greens were quite delicious. I tried some pit-pit; very nice, and the chicken was quite good as well. The potatoes were quite good, but my favorite were the lamb flaps. I’m not sure what part of the animal a “flap” is, but it was delicious! (A quick Internet search reveals that “if sheep were pigs, lamb flaps would be bacon.”) They had also fried some chicken – no breading or skin – in a pot on the fire in the house with the chickens, and that was quite good as well. I could tell from the sounds and smiles from around the grounds that I wasn’t the only one enjoying this mumu.
Great to be able to read all this. where are the better (so I can tell what they look like now that they are sooooo old!) pictures of kids and your child and Charlie??
Well, Cindy and I came back with between 7,000 and 8,000 photographs, so it’s a massive undertaking to sort through, categorize, and reduce that number into something we can publish. That being said, I’ll go ahead and get a couple published here shortly…